{"id":11459,"date":"2022-02-23T11:42:25","date_gmt":"2022-02-23T11:42:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/farmandanimals.com\/?p=11459"},"modified":"2022-02-26T11:34:55","modified_gmt":"2022-02-26T11:34:55","slug":"how-to-prune-a-pistachio-tree","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/farmandanimals.com\/how-to-prune-a-pistachio-tree\/","title":{"rendered":"How To Prune A Pistachio Tree {Explained!}"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Pistachio trees are pruned in much the same way as other fruit trees, although they don\u2019t need to be pruned as hard. They don\u2019t grow side branches easily, and it has been found that establishing the growth of a strong central leader rather than encouraging a U or V shape, results in a stronger tree less prone to breaking when laden with fruit. Read on to discover more about how to prune a pistachio tree.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How To Trim A Young Pistachio Tree?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"How<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Many fruit trees require quite significant pruning to maintain a good shape and encourage fruiting. This is not so true with pistachio trees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Despite this, similar pruning rules still apply. Young trees should be trained in their early years<\/a> to establish a good shape. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The shape is important as it influences the quality and quantity of fruit production and builds a frame that is easy to harvest. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the first year after grafting, the rootstock should have all the branches of its own variety removed completely, these are the branches that are growing out of the root stock. Leave only the grafted branch (scion) in place. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

First Year<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The scion should be cut back to a height of 40 inches from where it joins the rootstock. This promotes branching and encourages thickening of the branches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Second Year<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

In the second year, the strongest most vertical branch, usually the scion, should be chosen as the central leader and tipped (have the end cut off) but only if it has put on growth of 15 inches or more. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Secondary branches should be cut back further so they are shorter than the central leader. Ensure you tip them where there is an outward facing bud to encourage the development of an open canopy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It isn\u2019t necessary to remove secondary branches at this time because they will help develop the strength of the tree with the nutrients produced by their leaves. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Any branches growing from the rootstock can also be left for the summer months to leaf up, as this helps feed the tree and thicken the trunk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Subsequent Years<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

In later years, any secondary and tertiary branches that are less desirable (angle less than 70\u00b0 to the central leader or secondary branches) may be removed once the tree is more established. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Also, take out any that are crossing other branches or working to close the open canopy shape.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All branches coming from the root stock can be removed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the first five years, continue to develop the central leader and prevent any secondary branches from becoming too strong by giving them a light prune twice a year.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Older Trees<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

After the basic skeleton has been created, and an open crown shape is achieved, only light pruning should be given. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Always ensure any cuts you make when pruning are completely clean. Don\u2019t leave any jagged splintered wood.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The tools you use should be disinfected with surgical spirit before use, especially after cutting out any diseased wood, and when moving between trees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Use the proper tools for the job:<\/p>\n\n\n\n