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<\/figure>\n\n\n\nFirst, you need to ascertain the most likely cause that your tree is dying, so you can apply the right solution.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Luckily, once you start to notice your tree isn\u2019t looking too great, you generally have a few weeks or even months before it will die completely, depending on the cause of the problem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Although pinpointing the exact issue can sometimes be difficult, it\u2019s just a process of elimination.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
1. Is My Jujube Alive or Dead? <\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Start by making sure your Jujube tree is still alive. To do this, simply scratch off some of the bark on a small branch. If it\u2019s green inside, then it’s still holding on. If there is no green in the branch, move on to another and try again. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you can\u2019t find green on any of the branches you try, then you may be too late.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
2. Too Much or Too Little Water <\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Under watering and over watering can both cause problems. It may lead to leaves, flowers, or fruit dropping off and the tree starting to die.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Testing the soil for moisture is pretty simple. Make a small hole the depth of your index finger 12 inches to two feet away from the trunk of the tree, and feel how moist the soil is. If it’s bone dry then the tree needs watering, if the hole fills with water, or is very wet to the touch, then you may be over-watering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
To help maintain water in dryer conditions and in fast-draining soil, regularly apply lots of organic mulch around the tree, keeping it topped up to around two inches deep. Things like grass clippings, or aged bark chippings are ideal for this. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Always keep a gap of two to three inches between the mulch and the trunk of the tree to avoid mold problems.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you didn\u2019t improve your fast-draining soil prior to planting your tree, you may be able to carefully add some well-rotted compost, but practically speaking, it\u2019s going to be pretty tricky. Over time mulch will improve the soil, but it can take several years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It\u2019s best not to use fresh wood chippings<\/a> for mulching as they pull nitrogen from the surface soil. Once wood chips have aged for a few months, then they can be used without issue, and, as they decompose slowly, are often a better long-term solution compared to other softer mulches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ensure you water regularly, depending on the weather, and test the soil dampness every few days to ensure things are looking good.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Over watering can sometimes be even trickier to remedy than under-watering. If, for example, it isn\u2019t being caused by you physically applying water, but rather by wet weather conditions and heavy soil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If your tree has become waterlogged over the winter and the roots have rotted and become starved of oxygen, then your chances of saving it are far less. <\/p>\n\n\n\n If it\u2019s a young tree that you only planted the previous year, you may be able to dig it up and replant it somewhere where you have improved the soil, so it has better drainage. This should only be done as a last resort. When replanting, ensure you add plenty of good quality compost or high humus soil to improve drainage. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Never be tempted to add sand to clay soil, as it won\u2019t fix the problem. It just makes the soil act more like concrete.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Keep in mind that by only improving the soil in the hole that you dig for the tree, you may not actually fix the problem. When it next rains heavily again, the chances are the surrounding soil you didn\u2019t add improvements to will again become waterlogged, and the hole you dug will fill with water like a swimming pool drowning your tree.<\/p>\n\n\n\n An alternative is to plant the tree in a mound you make from good-quality soil. This will provide the young roots with nutrients without allowing them to become waterlogged.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Another option is to use a large pot. Potted jujube trees can do well, but careful attention must be paid to water and feeding them correctly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Watering can be tricky because of the number of variables such as weather conditions, soil type, age of the tree, and so on. That\u2019s why testing the soil regularly is the best solution. Always check before watering and adjust the amount of water you give accordingly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When you plant your Jujube tree, it can suffer from something called transplant shock. The leaves start to droop and eventually fall off. The reason for this is that the root ball has been disturbed or damaged too much while you were moving the tree to its new home. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The best way of avoiding transplant shock is by transplanting the tree while it is in its dormant winter state and ensuring the roots are kept as undisturbed as possible. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Damage to the taproot can cause the tree to take several years to recover, and the tree may end up being stunted or even die.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Transplant shock is often more severe in older trees. Young trees of a year or less don\u2019t seem to suffer so much and recover sooner. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Transplant shock can happen if you move a tree from a pot and put it into the ground, or from one pot to another, or by digging it up and moving it someplace else. The latter is the most likely to cause problems. <\/p>\n\n\n\n This is because once a tree is planted in the soil and not in a pot, it will root far more deeply, and the likelihood of you damaging the roots when digging it up are a lot higher.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Transplant shock can affect all kinds of trees, not just Jujube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n3. Jujube Tree Transplanting <\/h3>\n\n\n\n
4. Weather <\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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